World Crave

Spices and pantry

Spices and pantry basics for world cooking

You do not need a hundred jars to cook food from around the world. A few well-chosen spices, a handful of sauces and pastes, and the habit of buying small and often will take you a long way.

Glass jars of whole spices and dried chiles on a wooden pantry shelf
A small, well-used shelf beats a large, stale one.

The spice drawer

Each tin shows a spice's real color and form: ground, whole, a blend, leaves, threads or flakes. The green chips link to the region guides that use it most.

CumingroundEarthy and warm. Toast the seeds or bloom the powder in oil.S. AsiaMENAAmericas
Coriander seedwholeLight, citrusy and nutty. Often paired with cumin.S. AsiaSE Asia
TurmericgroundEarthy and a little bitter, with a yellow that stains.S. AsiaSE Asia
Green cardamomwholeFloral and resinous. Crack the pods open first.S. Asia
Black mustard seedwholePops in hot oil and turns nutty.S. Asia
Garam masalablendA warming blend that changes from cook to cook.S. Asia
Sichuan pepperwholeCitrusy husks that make the lips tingle.E. Asia
Star anisewholeLicorice notes for broths and braises. Use sparingly.E. AsiaSE Asia
GochugaruflakesKorean chile flakes, fruity and moderately hot.E. Asia
Sesame seedwholeNutty once toasted. A common allergen.E. Asia
LemongrassleafBright and lemony. Use the pale lower stalk.SE Asia
Makrut lime leafleafIntensely fragrant. Tear or shred finely.SE Asia
GingergroundFresh is sharp and juicy, dried is warmer.E. AsiaAfrica
SumacgroundTart and fruity, sprinkled over food at the end.MENA
Za'atarblendThyme-like herb, sumac and sesame. Recipes vary.MENA
Ras el hanoutblendA Moroccan blend. Every shop mixes its own.MENA
SaffronthreadsColor and a honeyed aroma. Steep in warm liquid.MENAEurope
CinnamonthreadsSweet warmth for savory stews as well as baking.MENAAmericasAfrica
Smoked paprikagroundSpanish pimentón, dried over wood smoke.Europe
Dried oreganoleafEarthy and peppery. Mexican oregano is another plant.EuropeAmericas
Black pepperwholeGrind it fresh. The aroma fades fast once ground.EuropeAfrica
Ancho chileflakesA dried poblano, mild with a raisin-like sweetness.Americas
AllspicewholeTastes of clove, cinnamon and nutmeg at once.Americas
BerbereblendEthiopian and Eritrean chile blend. Heat varies.Africa

Buying spices

  • Buy whole when you can. Whole seeds and pods keep their aroma much longer than ground spice.
  • Buy small. A small bag you finish in a few months tastes better than a large jar that sits for years.
  • Try grocers that serve the cuisine. Their spices often sell fast, so stock stays fresh.
  • Check blends. Garam masala, ras el hanout, berbere and za'atar vary widely by maker. Read the ingredients, and taste a little before cooking with it.

Storing spices

Heat, light, air and moisture all fade spices. Keep them in airtight containers in a cool, dark cupboard, away from the stove. Ground spices lose their aroma faster than whole ones. The simplest test is your nose: rub a pinch between your fingers, and if it smells weak or dusty, replace it. Old spices are rarely a safety concern. They just add very little flavor.

Toasting, blooming and grinding

  1. Toast whole spices in a dry pan over medium heat, shaking often, until fragrant and a shade darker. Tip them out right away so they stop cooking.
  2. Grind them once cool, in a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder kept just for spices.
  3. Bloom spices in fat at the start or end of cooking, as in South Asian tempering. Fat carries flavor through the dish better than water.
  4. Add delicate spices late. Blends like garam masala and finishing spices like sumac lose their top notes with long cooking.

Sauces, pastes and staples

Beyond spices, a few jars and bottles carry a lot of flavor.

ItemWhat it isWhere it is usedGood to know
Soy sauceFermented soybeans, usually with wheatEast and Southeast AsiaMost styles contain wheat. Tamari is often made with little or none, so read the label.
Fish sauceThe liquid from salted, fermented fishSoutheast AsiaAdds deep savory flavor in small amounts. Contains fish.
Miso and doenjangFermented soybean pastesJapan and KoreaStir in near the end. Hard boiling dulls the aroma.
GochujangFermented paste of chile, rice and soybeansKoreaSweet, savory and hot at once. Often contains wheat.
TahiniGround sesame seed pasteMiddle EastThe oil separates, so stir well. Sesame is a common allergen.
HarissaChile paste with garlic and spicesNorth AfricaHeat varies widely between batches. Taste before you measure.
Coconut milkGrated coconut flesh pressed with waterSouth and Southeast Asia, Caribbean, West AfricaThe cream rises in the can. Shake it, or skim the cream to fry curry paste.
TamarindSour pulp from a tree podSouth and Southeast Asia, MexicoSold as a block, paste or concentrate. Strengths differ, so add a little at a time.
GheeButter cooked until the milk solids separate and are strained outSouth AsiaHandles high heat and tastes nutty. Ethiopian spiced butter is a close cousin.
Masa harinaDried flour from corn treated with an alkaline solutionMexico and Central AmericaNeeded for tortillas and tamales. Plain cornmeal will not hold together the same way.

Many of these contain common allergens: soy, wheat, fish, sesame, peanuts or tree nuts. Labels and recipes vary by maker, so always check the label. For allergy questions, ask a doctor or allergist; the FDA's food allergy page explains US labeling.

Each region guide ends with five things to buy first, so you can start with one cuisine instead of a full cupboard.

Spice questions

How long do spices last?

There is no single answer. Whole spices keep their flavor much longer than ground ones, and storage matters a lot. Smell and taste are the best guide.